Brewing With Intent

Destination San Juan Capistrano. Most famous for the swallows that migrate there each year like clockwork, it may soon become even better known for the swallows of the sublime beers being brewed at Docent by brothers Bryan and Brett Giesen. Docent Brewing, turning an ancient three years old this month, is one of the best kept secrets in California brewing.

I was impressed the first time I visited years ago and, like most stellar brewers, Giesen’s beers get better every single time I venture south. On my recent visit for this interview, I asked Bryan Giesen, head brewer,

if there was some San Juan secret to his success. He smiled and answered, “Brewing with intent.”

I found his assessment intriguing,

so asked him to explain the concept. Giesen offered, “Brewing with intent is to capture a thought, a feeling, an inspiration in a glass. Some form of liquid communication.  To bring the spirit of what drives us as humans to create to every brew.”

Two years ago, at the World Beer Cup held in Nashville, Docent took home a silver medal for their extraordinary pale ale, Double Nickels. Bryan Giesen, award-winning homebrewer turned pro, has way more than that up his sleeve. His tap list at Docent is extensive. And it is exquisite.

DRENNON: Where were you raised and how did that form you into the person you are today?

GIESEN: Born and raised on the mean streets of South Orange County. A lot of skateboarding and beach days. Pleasant place to grow up. The summer going into my 8th grade year, though, my family moved to Arizona.

It was a tough age to be uprooted and I responded by perfecting my own brand of teen angst and dabbling in a bit of mischief. It was definitely a time that shaped who I am now as I learned a lot about navigating new landscape and personalities and relied heavily on music to keep my bearings. Oddly enough AZ was also where I had the first taste of craft beer or ‘microbrew’ as they called it then. We eventually made it back home to California where I finished high school and then did the “what the hell next” shuffle.

DRENNON: What were your passions as a kid?

GIESEN: Music above all else. You can chart my musical tastes throughout history by how I dressed at the time. Yes, unfortunately, even during the hip hop years. Had a couple of teenage bands – played some loud tunes with a lot of heart and little skill. Skateboarding and its culture were a big part of my life. Once we got over little league and such there was this incredibly different team energy and
camaraderie skateboarding provided. Along with a dash of rebellious punk rock ethos that was very enticing at the time. Lots of fond memories of skating with friends from morning to night and frequently running from strip mall security guards. I also read a lot.

DRENNON: What profession did you think you would end up in as a young person?

enough AZ was also where I had the first taste of craft beer or ‘microbrew’ as they called it then. We eventually made it back home to California where I finished high school and then did the “what the hell next” shuffle.

DRENNON: What were your passions as a kid?

GIESEN: Music above all else. You can chart my musical tastes throughout history by how I dressed at the time.

Yes, unfortunately, even during the hip hop years. Had a couple of teenage bands – played some loud tunes with a lot of heart and little skill. Skateboarding and its culture were a big part of my life. Once we got over little league and such there was this incredibly different team energy and camaraderie skateboarding provided. Along with a dash of rebellious punk rock ethos that was very enticing at the time. Lots of fond memories of skating with friends from morning to night and frequently running from strip mall security guards. I also read a lot.

DRENNON: What profession did you think you would end up in as a young person?

GIESEN: Depends on what age I was when you asked me. I think Jedi Knight was the first career goal. I still dream about being a musician.

DRENNON: Where, how and when did you get into beer and brewing?

GIESEN: I discovered good beer fairly young. A friend’s older brother turned us onto the remarkable Grant’s Apple Honey Ale. That was one of those flavor experiences that imprints itself. After that

it wasn’t easy for us kids trying to ‘pimp’ good beer outside of the grocery store. I always have gravitated away from the macro stuff and was intrigued by these very different flavors and aromas this ‘other’ beer provided. At some point in life

you discover something that compels you to want to learn how it is made. Around the mid 2000’s

I began a rather academic pursuit of all things beer. I read Michael Jackson, Randy Mosher and Stan Heironymous and became intrigued with styles from around the world.  This eventually led to seeking out these classics which then led to looking around closer to home. Specifically, my

own kitchen with the idea that I could replicate, or at least approximate, these famous brews. My local homebrew shop O’Sheas of Laguna Niguel was indispensable in my education. I made some great friends there and progressed quickly thanks to that

crew. Homebrewing flipped a switch in me. Interest turned to borderline obsession and a sticky stove followed. To be able to create a thing that you and others enjoy is a special kind of thrill and is still a major motivator for me.

DRENNON: When did you realize you were really good at it?

GIESEN: I started with a couple of kits and quickly realized this wasn’t brewing. Developed my first grain up recipe and decided to compete and get some real feedback. The first recipe I wrote was a reddish IPA called ‘the Damned Tide’ and scored

a 2nd place ribbon from the fair. Lots of air guitar and headbanging ensued.   It was enough to get  me to think there was something to my connection to brewing. That was kindling for sure. I had a pretty good streak over the next 5-6 years and won a decent number of awards.  Each award I won was for a different beer which was a point of pride. To have a repertoire was always important to me.

During that time, I had the epiphany that this was my calling. Over the next few years of honing skills in the backyard and garage I had several close calls with going pro and then finally I met the right group

of guys to pull something special together. Scott Cortelessa, Brian Hendon, and Joe Wilshire were already a couple years into the journey when we crossed paths.

DRENNON: So yeah. How did you meet up those three guys (the Docent owners) and end up being hired as the brewer?

GIESEN: There is some kismet and some tragedy to the story. Back in 2015 my brother Brett worked with my future partner Joe’s son, Stew. Brett had mentioned me brewing at home and Stew got my info to pass onto his dad who was planning a brewery right in our backyard!  I talked with Joe over the phone and planned to meet with the other partners Brian and Scott to sample beers. The next week Stew passed away in a tragic car accident. I never had the good fortune to meet Stew but he changed my life forever. I didn’t expect to hear from Joe again but then I got a call on my birthday a little over a year later. It was a surreal moment, and Joe was telling me that they were picking up the pieces and moving forward. We scheduled a meeting and I gathered just about every brew I had archived and the latest batches for the big evening. I remember thinking this may be the last chance I had to make this real. Beers were carefully poured and tasting notes handed out and I felt really good about the reception. As we were courting each other it was apparent we had a lot more in common than beer and truly enjoyed each other’s company.

I found a bond form very quickly as we embarked on starting San Juan Capistrano’s first brewery. My partners took a chance on an ambitious and shaggy homebrewer and I took

DRENNON: What is your philosophy as a brewer?

GIESEN: I suppose my philosophy is rather selfish. Essentially – what do a leap from a cozy and comfortable career to see if my dream held wort.

I want in my glass? I hope to have something on the board for everyone at any given time – but I design beer for my own cheap thrills and tend to rely on the instincts that got me this far to grow an audience.  I think that is essential to find one’s voice. I have been incredibly fortunate to be handed

complete creative control to follow the muse where it takes me. I explore the styles that inspire me and try to invent my own. Drinkability is important to me. Range – having a good color wheel on the taps is important to me. Taking the four fundamental ingredients of beer to exciting places while dabbling in weirdness every once in a while. The word ‘philosophy’ reeks of dogma, though, and I have pledged to be forever open to learn and grow. Docent beers may never be ‘done.’ We’ll try and improve with every turn.

DRENNON: You have been adamant that you will not brew hazy beer. Can you tell our readers why you have adopted such a strong position on it?

GIESEN: Why, Daniel Drennon, if I didn’t know better, I’d think you were trying to stir up some drama.

I was homebrewing hazy IPAs way before it was cool man! To be clear (ahem), I have not been outspoken about my opinion on hazies. I wouldn’t venture to tell people what they should like. Obviously, you’ve noticed a lack of hazy here as plenty of other patrons have, with varying degrees of enthusiasm. Of course, I am aware of them and have had a few I enjoyed.

Simply put, I won’t brew anything my heart is not in. I can hear music that was written to sell records in the first few notes if you get me. Sincerity is an essential ingredient. The goal is to create something permanent.  Not to fall in line but to contribute to this craft and carve our name in the mighty trunk of beer.

DRENNON: Your assistant brewer is your younger brother Brett. How did that come about and what are the pros and cons of working with someone so close to you?

GIESEN: Working with my brother has been an absolute gift. Brett was staying up with me until the wee hours in the garage brewing test batches for Docent. He showed up on day one to swing hammers our first day of construction without asking. He earned himself the first bartending position at the brewery and then gave up better money and a lot of flirty females to come schlep hoses behind the scenes with me. Slowly taking things in, learning the process, developing his palate. There is a lot of very specific details in the brewing process. It helps to be able to relate these to someone you can tell is with it or not. I can be very picky about how things are done but the important part is the why. Brett gets that.  The brother connection lends itself to a lot of unspoken communication where we instinctively have each other’s back with all these tasks firing at once any given day. If I lose my temper and raise my voice, there are no hurt feelings. Nowadays, though, I’ll go to do something and it’s already done, and done correctly. I don’t get to yell as much anymore, sadly. All of a sudden, he’s writing recipes, brewing some really delicious beer and inspiring me. The first to arrive and the last to go. Bert, as we call him, is as vital as malted barley to this operation.

DRENNON: Docent turns three years old this month. Where do you see Docent in another five years?

GIESEN: These three years have gone by in such a blink it is hard to comprehend what the next five years will bring. I am very proud of what we’ve accomplished in a short time. We are canning some of our regular offerings for the first time which is very exciting. A major reward for me so far are the friendships made and the people we’ve helped connect here.

That is a profoundly fulfilling aspect to starting a brewery that I didn’t really anticipate. We transformed a plain old dusty warehouse near the creek in San Juan Capistrano into a little community hub down here. I’d like to see us create more unique venues to host that same camaraderie and expand on our vision of a public house. Not only to spread the beer, but the Docent culture to new and thirsty locales. My crystal ball shows more field trips, more friendships and more beers but no one is promised tomorrow. (Giesen grins with a twinkle in his eye) We’ll probably start making seltzer and sell out to the man.

DRENNON: If you sat down with an aspiring brewer, what advice would you give them?

GIESEN: Be prepared to work longer and harder than you’ve been told or can imagine. Don’t forget to take the time to enjoy what you’ve helped create. Be prepared to share a beer and a laugh with a friend on your 14th hour. Be prepared to have your ego regularly tickled. Be prepared to have  something you’ve painstakingly crafted anonymously shit upon. Be prepared to have your will power and restraint tested. Be forever thankful you’ve been tasked with carrying on such a righteous and noble tradition.

DRENNON: If you were to describe yourself in one word or phrase, what would it be?

GIESEN: Grateful.

Docent’s 3rd anniversary party, dubbed “Field Trip Fest,” will take place on Saturday, March 14 in San Juan Capistrano and feature live music, food, and beer from Docent as well as 20 other brewery homies. Tix are available at the brewery and online at www.fieldtripfest.com